Markus Mardius, Contributor, Mimika, Papua | Culture | Tue, January 07 2014, 11:37 AM

http://www.thejakartapost.com/news/2014/01/07/a-very-papuan-batik.html

 

 

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Cendrawasih: This piece of Papuan batik features the province’s famous cendrawasih, or bird of paradise.

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A walk through the batik shops in Mimika proves that there’s more to Papuan fashion than the traditional noken (woven bag) or the koteka (penis sheathe).

Local designers are making Papuan-style batik in bright reds, yellows and greens — a stark contrast to the subdued colors of Central Java, where the style came into fashion. Adorning local batik are local motifs and sacred symbols, ranging from crocodiles to cendrawasih birds of paradise and from spears to traditional tifa drums.

“In general visitors only know Asmat motifs,” Risma, one long-time batik vendor, said, referring to the tribe that inhabits the southwest corner of Papua. “Asmat motifs are identical to sacred symbols, such as statues and carved wooden shield with squares. The color is brown, with a mixture of soil and terracotta color. A lot of batik designs of other tribes and cultures complement each other”.

Nurhadi owns a batik shop on Jl. Budi Utomo in Timika. The 44-year-old discussed the nuts and bolts of wearing the clothing. “There are only three kinds of materials used for the type of batik typical to Papua: satin, cotton and silk. Buyers favor cotton batik very much. It is less expensive. It can absorb sweat.”

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Gorgeous: Prices depend on the quality of the fabric, ranging from cotton batik, priced at Rp 65,000 a meter, to Rp 300,000 a meter for silk.

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Colorful: Bows and arrows, traditional tifa drums and cendrawasih adorn this batik.


She said that the goods she sold were imported from Jayapura.

Meanwhile, mining giant PT Freeport Indonesia has gotten into the act, sponsoring corporate social responsibility programs that have backed exhibitions of Papuan batik in Jakarta and Jayapura and promoted local designers.

The firm has also collaborated with Jimmy Afaar, perhaps the most famous Papuan designer, to organize batik training sessions for women in Jayapura in 2011.

Ilham, who owns a batik shop on Jl. A. Yani, said that his monthly revenue could top Rp 15 million. “Many people purchase Papuan batik by the roll or meter for souvenirs on the way back home. At least 20 people visit the store each day.”

Meanwhile, Nurhaidi says that prêt-à-porter Papuan batik is readily available. “It is not only limited to dress shirts, tee-shirts and collared shirts. Bags and purses are available, too.”

Prices depend on the quality of the fabric, ranging from cotton batik, priced at Rp 65,000 a meter, to Rp 300,000 a meter for silk.

One woman with experience in making Papuan batik is Matelda, who has taught elementary school in Kuala Kencana since 2005. Previously, the 35-year-old worked for two years at her mother’s five-person studio, Batik Tulis Karya Putri Dobonsolo on Jl. Kemiri in Sentani, Jayapura.

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At work: A woman makes batik at Batik Tulis Karya Putri Dobonsolo on Jl. Kemiri in Sentani, Jayapura.


Matelda said that her mother’s workshop has been producing printed, stamped or handmade Papuan batik with sentani motifs since 1996. Customers specify the designs desired and the raw materials are consigned from Yogyakarta and Surakarta, Central Java.

“The sentani motif is a bit different from other tribes and cultures in Papua,” she says. “The motif depicts a circular groove and its background is bit blue. The process of printing or painting is similar to other areas in Java. The basic materials are wax, a canting [wax pen], a small stove, paraffin, a small brush, a baking pan or casserole dish and an iron wok.”

She continues. “My mother’s workshop can produce three meters of handmade batik a day, 50 meters of printed batik a day, whilst the complicated motifs take two up to three days. Prices vary depending on the motifs and designs. Handmade batik is expensive. The complicated motifs and design are more expensive.”

Matelda, who is of Serui ethncitiy, the designs used for Papuan batik came from many tribes (suku) and were originally inscribed in bark, buildings, paddles, boats, caves and walls. Artists have imitated and preserved the designs until now.

Fitria, who heads the regency education agency’s secondary schools office, said that her staff wore Papuan batik on Fridays and for special occasions. “We also have been coordinating with the principals of both public and private schools in order to obligate their pupils to don batik Papua on certain days.”

Similarly, Yohanis Kasamol, the head of Mimika’s tourism office, said that more government officers were buying local-style batik. “One way we have introduced Papuan batik in Mimika is that we have asked employees who work at Mozes Kilangin Airport to don batik on certain days. Passengers who get off the plane will see the officers wearing Papuan batik immediately.”

Mimika’s former regent, Titus Potereyauw, echoed Yohanis’ statements. “Since 2001, we have required all civil servants to don Papuan batik in Mimika. They are free to choose the desired patterns and motifs.”

There’s no one approved pattern for the official batik. Civil servants are free to choose their favorite motifs, except on certain special days when they are asked to wear batik reflecting the regency’s Komoro indigenous people, the 79-year-old said.

One customer, Albert Tony, an employee of PT Freeport Indonesia who hails from Samarinda, East Kalimantan, said he frequently sought out the unique designs. “I often come to the store and purchase quite a lot of Papuan batik for souvenirs for my friends and my relatives.”

Papua-style batik can be found at stores located along Jl. Serui Mekar, Jl. Budi Utomo and Jl. A. Yani in Mimika.

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Show time: Mariana Ibo Pulanda (left), 68, shows off Papuan batik at her studio.

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Check it out: Three kinds of material are used for the type of batik typical to Papua: satin, cotton and silk. Buyers favor cotton batik, as it is less expensive and can absorb sweat.

- Photos by Markus Mardius