“You can eat dinner in Jakarta and breakfast in Fakfak,” Tourism and Creative Economy Deputy Minister Sapta Nirwandar said on a number of occasions during festivities for Fakfak’s 112th birthday.
Stressing that the journey to the quiet regency in West Papua is rather straightforward, with a late night flight from Jakarta and quick transit in Ambon allowing visitors to arrive by 9 a.m., the deputy minister was testing a possible catchphrase for Fakfak tourism while simultaneously revealing his passion for food, a passion that was certainly gratified in an area known for its nutmeg, varieties of sweet potatoes and bountiful seas.
Located along a scenic coastline dotted with
emerald islets, Fakfak regency’s tiny capital city of the same name was
hosting a week of celebrations from Nov. 10 to 16 to promote tourism and
the area’s culture, an event that was the first of its kind for Fakfak
and which was capped by the deputy minister’s visit.
Fakfak
regent Mohammad Uswanas said before a feast of local cuisine attended by
kepala suku (local clan leaders) in traditional dress, “Fakfak has
potential like Raja Ampat and a rich history and culture … We hope to
develop tourism in the region, including the diving and fishing
possibilities.”
Great swaths of coral visible from the plane
promise unexplored underwater panoramas, and judging from the
out-of-this-world boat rides past craggy limestone bluffs and deserted
white sand beaches, and 30 minutes of fishing one afternoon that
garnered four gorgeous bluefin tuna, the possibilities for maritime
pleasure in Fakfak appear endless.
“Tourism is part of the world
economy now … and the Tourism and Creative Economy Ministry wants to
support tourism in Fakfak in what is such a dynamic area,” Sapta said to
the crowd before the meal.
During that lunch the conversation
quickly turned to the religious tolerance in the regency, the only one
in West Papua with a majority Muslim population, said the regent and
later verified by West Papua in Figures, which cites Central Statistics
Agency (BPS) data from 2011. Islam has roots in these parts dating back
centuries to when the area had close ties with the Tidore sultanate in
North Maluku.
Mohammad said, “Look at my family, in my family we
have Muslims and Christians. We all celebrate Ramadhan and we all
celebrate Christmas.” Muslims constitute 50 percent and Protestants and
Catholics each make up approximately 25 percent of Fakfak residents,
according to BPS figures from 2009-2011.
Two men enjoying the
spread of grilled and roasted fish, papeda (sago porridge), taro and
cassava cooked in bamboo, and a fabulous sambal pala (nutmeg chili
sauce) told The Jakarta Post that Fakfak was unique for its religious
diversity within families. And the two farmers were examples of such,
Karas Namudat a Muslim and his nephew Herman of Protestant faith.
Asked
how that had happened, Karas offered a philosophical response,
“Religious faith is not a choice but something that happens before even
the presence of organized religions in the world. The spirit or soul
that enters each person at that time is what determines one’s faith.”
A
lively spirit was definitely in evidence in Fakfak during evening
performances of dance from throughout the regency, with each group’s
movements, music and dress a study in variety, the only constant the
prevalence of bouquets of bird of paradise feathers in the hands of
swaying women.
Clan leaders Jernias Tutorop and Zubair Hobro,
clad in intricate headgear decorated with cassowary feathers, were
standing before a display of noken (orchid-fiber or bark bags with the
strap worn over the head) and jewelry and gladly discussed how the rings
and bracelets were created by their people, the Mbaham Matta. “We make
these pieces through an extremely special — and secret — process that
involves the use of sacred mantras. Others don’t make these like we do,”
Jernias told the Post.
Asked about the origins of the term
Fakfak, Zubair said, “It was originally ‘Pakpak’, which means ‘a place
of war’ because of the many warring groups in the area, but when the
Dutch came they couldn’t pronounce it and said ‘Fakfak’ instead.”
Fakfak
is considered one of the oldest cities in Papua, established by the
Dutch in 1898 along with Manokwari to the north. Evidence of that Dutch
presence can still be seen along the main street leading from the port,
with rows of bustling shops continuing to offer wares in colonial-era
buildings that lend downtown Fakfak a timeless ambiance and sultry
frontier edge.
But there is even more history to be had here. The
district of Kokas, approximately 45 kilometers to the north, boasts the
oldest mosque in Papua, Masjid Tua Patimburak, built in 1870. Nearby
are dark, steamy caves dug by the Japanese during World War II, as well
as a tiny stone battlement large enough for only a few lonely Japanese
soldiers to keep watch over Bintani Bay.
That bay also preserves
an even earlier history — rock paintings accessible only by boat in deep
scarlet, featuring swaths of handprints, swirls of lines, lizard-like
figures and geometric shapes. Similar to aboriginal art found in
northwest Australia that is still being studied and dated, Fakfak’s
extraordinary rock art lingers, yet to be scrutinized or analyzed.
“Fakfak
is still pristine. People don’t know anything about Fakfak, and it
looks so much like Raja Ampat, which is now so famous … There is so much
potential here, for diving, for fishing. There are the prehistoric rock
paintings, the natural world,” Sapta said during a group interview his
final night in Fakfak.
Albert Hindom, who had just recited a
nongnong, a kind of pantun or sung poem in the local language that
speaks to and of the past, brought up the future to the deputy minister
at the conclusion of one evening’s events, “When you get back to
Jakarta, don’t forget us in Fakfak.”
After enjoying breezy boat
rides through aquamarine waters, sampling the excellent food, and
attempting various types of traditional dance alongside convivial
locals, it is doubtful he — or any of the area’s other visitors — can or
will.